Mr. Blue Eyes

It was immediately noticeable.  And surprising.  References to him were everywhere – posters, banners, amulets, framed pictures.  It was plain to see that Turks are in love with their first president, Mustafa Kemal.  We were amazed at the adoration.  It seemed his persona was perfect to the local people and, to us, something about it seemed over the top.  A infallible politician?  No way.  Why was there so much of Mr. Kemal everywhere?  We thought it was too much of a good thing.

We realize that their George Washington, Atatürk (Father of the Turks) as he is lovingly known, is credited for founding their new republic.  He led the army to victory and paved the way for independence from Ottoman rule.  He is credited for economically and culturally modernizing the country and for giving women the right to vote long before many European nations.  And so on and so on. 

But still.  That was 1923.  87 years ago.  As we wandered through Turkey it was the same, Atatürk, Atatürk, Atatürk.  And we wondered why.

Bridges, parks, highways, airports and buildings all over the world are named after him.  And as recently as 1981 the UN and UNESCO named it the Year of Atatürk for many reasons, and specifically his efforts toward world peace.  He is the only person to receive such recognition.

Could it have helped that he was very handsome?  Or that he has cool blue eyes?  Or that he died at the young age of 57? (Of cirrhosis,  BTW.)  Or was it simply that he was a great leader?  Or something else?

On the date of his death, every year on November 10, Turkey stops.  Everything ceases for sixty seconds as homage is paid to their Atatürk.  We witnessed this phenomenon first hand.  We heard the sirens initially, then it got really quiet.  We had no idea, at first, what was happening.  As hard as it was, we pried ourselves away from the breakfast table and ran outside.  What we saw amazed us.  Cabs were stopped in the middle of the streets, pedestrians were frozen mid step, smokers held their cigarettes still, shop keepers stopped selling, diners put their forks down.  It was a site to behold. 

Did the newly formed United States celebrate George Washington to this level?  When Turkey is 234 years old, will Atatürk still be on this high of a pedestal?   

There is no doubt that Mustafa Kemal was a great leader.  But, as usual, with anyone on this high of a pedestal, there is more to the story of his adoration.  Come to find out, there is law which makes it illegal to insult him or destroy any objects representing him.  Ahhhh…..now we understand why there are images of him everywhere.  None of them can be thrown away. 

Even though we think that law should be thrown out, we agree that anyone that creates a secular democracy in a primarily Muslim country; in a part of the world that needs more separation of religion and government deserves celebrity status.  Knowing more about Atatürk and seeing the way Turks still honor him added to our long list of why we like Turkey. 

PS: In countries along the Mediterrean Sea and in the Middle East we saw this style of amulet everywhere.  It was available in mass, in all shapes, sizes and styles.  We found it very curious that in Turkey, they call it the Atatürk eye (probably for Atatürk’s blue eyes).  In Greece, they call it the Evil Eye.  We’re guessing that it is called evil because Atatürk forced all the Greeks to abandon their homes and live their lives somewhere other then the newly formed Republic of Turkey.  But that’s another story altogether.