Neither rain, nor snow, nor sleet, nor hail…

What does the city of Ljubljana, Slovenia have in common with The Galapagos islands?  A postcard!  To be exact, a postcard from Post Office Bay on the island of Floreana, Galapagos.  We participated in the great postal tradition from this island and hand delivered a postcard addressed to a fun couple in Ljubljana, the capital of the beautiful country of Slovenia.
A barrel on Floreana Island has been the mail box for buccaneers, whalers, convicts and colonists for the last three centuries.  No stamps were required as the mail was hand delivered by travelers destined for the address on the mail.  Today, tourists carry on the tradition and we have new friends because of it!  The idea is the same as it was although most people write a postcard to themselves, drop it in the box and then see how long it takes to be hand delivered.  And if you’re bound for an address on a postcard, you take it.  
In July we picked up a postcard that was bound for Ljubljana, Slovenia; in September we carried out the Galapagos tradition. 
Through rain, wind and hail (literally) we set out to deliver this special mail.  The parking lot of the apartment complex was practically empty and we almost just put the postcard in the mail slot, when, at the very last minute, we decided to ring the intercom bell. 
 
Low and behold, a voice said hello.  After we explained our reason for ringing, without hesitation, we were invited in.  We were lucky, Petra just happened to be home from work to eat lunch.  Her husband, Magedie, wrote the postcard so she called him and over the wire we were introduced.  We briefly shared Galapagos memories and made plans to get together for dinner.
An intelligent, well traveled couple; he’s from South Africa and she’s from the countryside of Slovenia.  Over Mexican food and margaritas we discussed the black market for diapers (nappies) in the late 80s, American politics (term limits), the breakup of Yugoslavia, life when Tito was in power and that salsa dance is the  reason they’re together.

There’s one more thing that Slovenia and the Galapagos Islands have in common - Petra and Magedie’s yet to be born baby.  A Slovenian baby made in the Galapagos!  Awww…
The time we spent with our new salsa dancing friends was the cherry on top of a few wonderful days in the fantastic city of Ljubjlana.

Our Big Four…..

The four main Central European cities (some call them Eastern Europe) on our itinerary have had an amazing shared history.  The cities of Vienna, Prague, Krakow, and Budapest all have had been ruled by the Habsburgs, invaded or occupied by the Ottomans, have a bloody history with the Nazis, and have either lived under communist rule or been effected by it.  With all this shared history and closeness in proximity, we wanted to see these cities for our ourselves and interact with the people making their lives there today.  We found in each fantastic and unique architecture, medieval castles, and hard working individuals.

We were astounded at how elegant and romantic Vienna felt.  Building after building was decorated to the hilt.  We hiked and biked all around the streets to see these masterpieces.  The people looked equally classy.  Even in the tourist zones we felt a little too casual.  We were definitely not in Portland any longer!  The Viennese make denim sophisticated.  High heels and button down shirts were the norm.   So, what does one do to be entertained in this city of culture?…..attend a free outdoor Opera, of course. 
We discovered an outdoor venue for watching classic operas, on film.  That was the only way we’d attend an opera.  Not only was the venue, free, it was very impressive.  We joined several thousand people in watching Carmen on a gigantic screen next to Vienna‘s historic City Hall.   The food court was amazing as well.  We indulged in upscale fast food on ceramic plates and real wine glasses.  Although the opera is a taste we haven’t quite acquired yet, it was great to experience a typical Vienna summer evening. 

 

 

   

Prague is one of the most crowded European cities we visited and after our 6 days there we understand it‘s attraction.  As we mentioned in an earlier post it‘s a beautiful city with it‘s 100s of spires.  We had a surprising treat as we descended Castle Hill.  Fire works lit up the Prague skyline and Vtlava river.  No one we asked could explain the cause for the celebration so we assumed it was because we had arrived in town!  We were lucky to meet up with a woman through Servas who just happened to be a professional tour guide.  She took us on a personalized walk through the old town and as a bonus told us about her participation in the Velvet Revolution in 1989 (more to come on that later).  We also celebrated our wedding anniversary by ’dressing up’ and going to a jazz club.  We sat with 3 guys from Oslo, Norway in the big city of Prague for the weekend to unwind from what they described as ’shit work’ of cleaning concrete forms.  They admitted within minutes of meeting us that they were really drunk and were in a hard core punk rock band as a hobby.  They were hysterical and somewhat pathetic, but entertaining.  Once the music started, they left.  No mosh pit!  We stayed and completely enjoyed listening to the extremely talented jazz no-names from Prague.

 

 

 

Rumor has it that Krakow is going to be Europe’s next Prague.  It, too, has a really great historic old town with many squares for just hanging out.  The café culture of grabbing a drink and watching the world go by (smoking) is alive and well here.  We found Krakow to have some of the best old town walking areas.  Where the towns protective walls once stood is now a circular park.  With it’s paths, fountains and statues, it’s was the perfect place for us to step up the pace from the tourist shuffle.  We thought it was the best reengineered medieval fortification; now a place for people to get together rather then a wall to keep people apart.

   

 

Budapest is going through major rebuilding and updates; there is construction everywhere.  One person we talked with laughed about all the ‘improvements’ and said it’s the new government in office trying to make themselves look good by starting a bunch of construction projects.  She doubted that many of them would ever get completed.  She also showed us an area that the locals call Budapest’s National Hole.  It’s a gathering spot with an underground café and outdoor seating all around the perimeter of the hole.  Originally it was designated as the site of the National Theater and was completely dug out and the foundation was being poured.  Then a new political party was elected.  The new administration didn’t like the location of the Theater and halted construction.  Our Budapest friend said it’s very typical for her city but thinks what they did with the area turned out pretty good.  We agree.  We sat near Budapest’s National Hole and pondered governments.  They seem to be pretty much the same around the world - inefficient and always trying to look good.

It doesn’t matter to us if they’re considered in Central or Eastern Europe (it’s just semantics), we’re so glad we visited these four magnificent cities.  It was enlightening and saddening to learn more details about each.  Even though they share pretty brutal histories each has a unique vibe, look, culture.  We made the most of our time in each city and think they are all worthy of a visit.

Difficult or Enriching?

As you can probably imagine, during our travels we’ve encountered all types of challenges.  There are the obvious ones that we knew we’d have to deal with:  various toilet configurations, questionable food and water, wardrobe limitations, uncomfortable pillows, dim lighting.   Then there are the ones we didn’t think about or even imagine.  Most of the time we laugh over these circumstances, other times we shout, cuss, roll our eyes or cry and then get over it.  The most unexpected hurdles make the best stories:

• Looking forward to watching mindless TV during our week stay in a rental apartment on the Dalmatian Coast.  It was advertised to be up to western standards and have satellite cable TV.  It has lots of channels all right…..all 300 of them are only in German! 
• Trying to cuddle in European double beds that are actually two twin mattresses pushed together.  Is the crack down the middle a birth control device?
• Washing clothes for a couple weeks only to find that the reason they smell and feel so nice is that the soap isn’t soap; it’s fabric softener - should we have double checked that Czech label?  It looked like detergent to us!
• From Croatia, buying tickets on line for the Munich Santana concert.  Why is the site only in German and what address do we use for receiving the tickets?
• Taking a shower in a stall that has no elbow room nor shower curtain.  How do you get clean when you can barely move or can‘t spray the water where it‘s needed most?
• Each one of our new “homes” has some design nuance to discover, usually painfully:  stubbing our toes on a threshold that sticks up ½ inch on either side of the door, or clunking our heads on light fixtures that are just a bit too low.
• Road signs that are “all Greek to us” only to find out what they mean after it’s too late: pedestrians only, official use only or Hey idiot, this street is closed, go back.  In one case we were actually told that we have 5 seconds to turn around and leave the area.  We sarcastically asked for 6.
• Super rubbery ice cube trays.  Who invented these useless things?
• An apartment that has the kitchen in the bathroom or is it the bathroom in the kitchen.  Either way it is G.R.O.S.S.  Cooking while sitting…..maybe it’s an idea that will catch on someday.
• People that take up the entire sidewalk and don’t move an inch when passing.  ARG!
• Hungarian hair stylists: selecting a hair color (by pointing and gesturing) only to find out it doesn’t look anything like the sample.  Since when is light brown, coal black?  And agreeing on the Number 2 shaver only to be almost scalped.  It’s hard to tell in the picture, but Amy’s hair is waaaay darker then any hair should be and Steve’s is so short he wonders if it’ll ever grow again.  Don’t we look over joyed with our new dos? 
• Keys and doors.  We’ve spent many frustrating moments locking and unlocking our homes including breaking and entering!  From huge medieval keys to digital codes to doormen to doors that can’t be opened even when unlocked.  This is Steve climbing into our own 2nd story apartment after walking blocks to borrow a ladder.  Who installs a door knob that doesn’t turn, even when unlocked?

Do these hurdles and challenges “enrich” our travel experience?  We actually believe that they do!  In the moment we may be frustrated or pissed, but so far, it’s the difficult times that are the most memorable and laughable.  Oh the stories we’ll be able to tell.

Bathing Hungarian Style

  You’ve heard the saying…..When in Rome do as the Romans do……how about applying that philosophy to Hungary?  When in Hungary, do as Hungarians do….Bathe!    And, oh boy, bathe we did.  It was a bath like no other.  The thermal pools were everywhere.  And in any variety of temperatures.  Hot and only tolerable for a few minutes to so cool we had to move to  stay warm.  What!?!?  Move? 

We spent the afternoon in a very traditional Hungarian bathing house – magnificently ornate and disorientingly cavernous. 


While we bathed we played chess, we giggled while going round and round in a jet powered circle, we experimented with jets on our feet, neck and backs, we frolicked, we gawked at the itty bitty bathing suits, sat in the saunas, and had a really good time being a temporary local doing what we were surprised to discover, many locals do, regularly.   

Vrooooooomming in the Slovakian Mountains….

“It’s 60 Euros, but I’ll let you have it, today only, for just 20 Euros” he said to me (Amy) with a smirk.  As nervous as I was, I quickly handed him the 20 and said nothing more.  In return he gave me four small pieces of paper and I was on my way again.  What did I buy for such a  bargain price?  I’m guessing either his lunch or a few drinks.  In Slovakia, speeding tickets are paid on the spot, in cash.  Yes, I was stopped for speeding.   Dammit.  62 in a 50.  Kilometers per hour!  That’s 38 in a 31 to you and me.  There were no options for a court date, traffic school or sending the fine by mail.  But it was over quick.  The cop spoke English, had a sense of humor, gave us advice on a nearby town and was a very good multi-tasker.  He pulled over and fined 3 other speeders during the short time we waited claiming that we were all caught on camera.  Hmmm…..where were the lenses? The lights? The van?  The proof? 
Speeding in Slovakia - It’s Steve’s turn to drive!

Hooray for Parents

In their day to day life, in Tucson Arizona, my (Amy) mom and dad (D&G) are as active and energetic as they come.  They golf, hike, volunteer, work out, garden and are non stop social butterflies.  While traveling with us from Prague to Krakow, while nursing colds, they didn’t let up from their typical level of activity.   

After their luxury Danube River Cruise they had to transition to winging it with their vagabonding daughter and son-in-law.  Probably pretty shocking!  Yet, they didn’t blink an eye when it came to hauling their own luggage, showing up in a town without reservations or making all decisions on their own.  They grinned even when the mattresses were kind of hard or the room a bit noisy. 

Together we experienced the highs and lows of travel and the art of patience.  I’ll never forget spending these days with my parents.  They were patient and flexible; two of the most important traits to have while traveling as nomads. To add a level of complete honestly to this blog, I have to admit that I was caught off guard by the amount of worrying I did about them.  As worrying usually goes, it was all for not.  But it added a layer of stress that I didn’t anticipate.  I worried that our accommodations weren’t good enough, that we weren’t out and about enough, that they were tired and didn’t tell me, that we stayed up too late and didn’t get up early enough, etc.  You get the idea.  I felt completely responsible for their experience when I know better than that.  Being a daughter is tough duty sometimes, especially when traveling with mom and dad in former communist Europe.  Regardless, it was a fabulous time and I wouldn’t change a thing.

Biking through the Czech Republic countryside to explore castle ruins.

Sampling Polish vodka

Rafting down the Vltava River through Ceske Krumlov narrowly escaping sure death

Touring and tasting Czech pivo (beer)

Crying as we toured Auschwitz and Birkenau

Searching for miles for the best ice cream and gelato this side of the Atlantic

Hiking with all the vacationing Czechs in the Tatra Mountains of Czech Republic

Enduring the claustrophobia inducing Wieliczka salt mines

Torturing each other on medieval torture devices

Marveling at the riches of religious leaders          And eating.  Fine dining to chowing!

Although  it’s been said that relatives and fish stink after 3 days; we all wrapped ourselves in plastic, tin foil and newspaper and thoroughly enjoyed our time.  D&G; fabulous people, parents, partiers.