Close Encounters - Self Drive Safaris

      

Have you ever rented a very small Japanese car and come literally face to face with a 6 ton elephant?  So close that you were not sure if you should reach out and touch it or slam your foot on the accelerator? 

In our previous safaris in Tanzania, Uganda, and Rwanda, we  traveled in sturdy 4-wheel drive vehicles with experienced drivers and guides.  We were never on our own to navigate or to manage the road system, and always had someone to determine how to best handle our way around an animal encounter.  Not so in South Africa.  Self drive safaris - good idea or disaster in the making? 

South Africa has a large system of National and private game parks that are setup to preserve the various indigenous animals and to insure the safety of the local people.  Electrified fences and tall natural barriers are maintained so that human and beast do not pose a threat to each other.  In other words, South Africa has vast cageless zoo’s covering immense amounts of unspoiled natural areas or recovered farmland.  The animals have to fend for themselves and as far as we know there is very little human intervention aside from the tourists and their vehicles.

 

 

So…..with that in mind, we took the opportunity to drive around several of these parks on our own.  Only a few rules to follow - stay on the designated trails; don’t feed the animals; and remain in your car unless in a specified (supposedly safe) area.  And yes, the animals roam freely and get very close…….in some cases, too close! 

 

In one particular life or death situation, Amy was behind the wheel with Steve navigating from the backseat.  We had been in the car for some time, and “the coffee kicked in”.  Of course we were about as far away from the rest area as one could be, and the urge became overwhelming.  Our bodies were in the midst of adjusting to the new food and water.  You get the idea.  We had to go now or it was going to get disgusting.  Our strategy was to drive to a place that looked safe and private.  We were on a road that looked liked only a few tourists dare to go.  It was VERY narrow and overgrown and things were looking too dangerous to get out of the car.  It was thick jungle and anything could be lurking.  But it was now or never.  We were seconds away from chancing it…..……when…….directly in front us was…………..a heard of elephants!

They weren’t expecting a car and within a split second of seeing us the big protective momma with a small baby by her side flared her ears and without hesitation…..she charged us.

All of a sudden it became real obvious how much of a tin can car we were in.  Amy had no time to think and shifted into reverse and floored it……backwards.  The path was too narrow to turn around in and momma was making up ground fast as she headed directly towards us.  For what seemed like an eternity, we gunned it backwards…..and yes, one of us still had to urgently go #2!  Finally after at least a 1 mile later, we broke the park rules and got out of the car to take car of some business.  Aaahh!  Gross mess averted.  And Whew!  Elephant close encounter behind us.

This was one of several very close encounters we had while in Hluhluwe - Imfolozi, Mkuze, Addo, and iSimangaliso National Parks in South Africa.  We loved being our own guides!             

Kwalazulu Natal – South Africa

After more than a month on safari, we wanted to land in an area that offered a bit more of a “civilized” experience.  We loved the animals and people of Tanzania, Uganda, and Rwanda, but yearned for a bit more upscale services and to look at faces more like our own.  It is draining to always be different; to stand out like a sour thumb.  We wanted to fit in more then we did long ago as awkward teenagers!

  So we set out for South Africa, our 26th country and second to last destination.  Although the population of South Africa is only 8% white, at least we blended in a bit better then in the countries with less then a 1% white population.  At the beginning of our travels we were anxious to be surrounded by people of diverse colors; at this point we were exhausted by it. 

We landed in Durban, population 3 million, on the Indian Ocean and rented a car to explore the KwalaZulu Natal region of South Africa. 

Remember the television miniseries called “Shaka Zulu”?  Well if you do, this is the area of Africa where King Shaka came from and where he united the various local tribes into the mighty Zulu warriors of  the early 19th century.  We were still in a very culturally diverse place; just to a lesser extent.

It was mid summer, in February.  Warm, humid and sunny.  And we liked it, but air conditioning was very welcome.  Durban was our first of many stops in South Africa and was used as a place primarily to catch up on all the mundane necessities like paying bills, doing laundry and hair cuts.  It provided our first look at the beautiful Indian ocean!  The beaches are gorgeous.  Soft white sand, really warm water, and lots of…….shark nets!  Over 40 species of sharks are found in this area, and there are warning signs everywhere.  The nets work to some degree, but the danger postings are very clear of the risks that lurk below.

This area is famous for lots of sea life, not just sharks.  Depending upon the time of year Whale Sharks (the world’s largest fish) and Right Whales migrate through here.  Unfortunately, we missed these gentle giants, and would like to come back to see them someday.   

We usually dread shopping mall excursions, so it’s hard for us to believe that we actually desired to go to The Mall.  The largest mall in South Africa is in Durban and has the tallest climbing wall and a huge water park, an iMax theater and of course lots of stores.  Amy had an uncomfortable, eye opening experience in one of the main department stores.  She went in by herself looking for some fresh clothes.  It was uneasy because there wasn’t another white person in sight and all of the mannequins had darker skin.  She realized how women of other races must feel when shopping in a store marketed to whites.  It’s not a welcome feeling.  

After catching up on life in this modern city, we headed north for more nature.  St Lucia and Sodwana Bay were our destinations. 

They are on the coast of the Indian Ocean and offer great diving, birding, nature reserves and a really laid back vibe.  Steve made a couple of scuba dives on the famous 2 Mile Reef off Sodwana Bay and saw 9 big rays, and 4 large moray eels.  He was in heaven.

               

There were times when we had miles and miles of beach all to ourselves with no one else in sight.

Durban and the rest of the KwalaZulu Natal were a perfect transition out of the deep African bush to the more tame end of this exceptional continent.

Gorillas of Rwanda Part 3

Continued from Part 2…

Unbelievable is the only way to describe it - a large gorilla with the biggest head you’ve ever seen, sitting right in front of us nonchalantly eating bamboo.  Francoise started clearing all the brush away so the vets could get a good look at the bloody foot.  At one point Francoise tried to move the remaining bamboo that was between us and the #1, when the king grabbed it right out of his hand!  That is how close Francoise was to him. 

 Normally tourists get about an hour with their assigned group.  We had at least 90 minutes while the vets reviewed the injury (no intervention needed). 

 The head veterinarian told us he had been on approximately 100 of these types of treks before.  He said without a doubt, it was the best one he had ever seen and told us we should go buy a lottery ticket.  We didn't need to; we had already won the lottery!