Varietal de Altura

Napa Valley meets Tucson meets Southern Utah….

When you think of altitudes above 6,500 feet do you think of Saguaro like cactus, huge rock outcroppings with tons of grape vines mixed in?  We didn’t either until we visited the fascinating (and oh so tasty) Cafayate Valley in the state of Salta in Northern Argentina.  Who would have guessed that grapes grown at high altitude make excellent wine.  Although relatively unknown the grape farmers and wine makers in this region definitely know what they are doing and are turning out some exceptional Cabs, Malbecs, and Torrontes.

 We tasted many different varietals and wanted to ship cases and cases home but unfortunately they don’t have the ability to ship mass quantities to the US.  It was like we were tasting wine in Napa Valley 25 years ago - no crowds, no pretensions, just great varietals, this time of the high altitude kind.  We found only one thing that this region could improve - make stronger cork screws!  We broke two of them while tasting our "to-go" samples.

An Impromtu Haircut

At the last minute Steve decided to get a haircut.  We were on our way somewhere when we walked by a peluquería when SB decided to get a cut.  Little did I know that I would end up having a particularly wonderful time.  And I feel compelled to share the story.

A barber who wasn’t working stood up and gestured for me to sit on the couch where he had just been reading the paper.  I didn’t need the entire couch so I said “sientese” and patted the couch indicating that it was ok for him to sit next to me.  He did.  We had the most pleasant conversation.  In spanish.  He didn’t know a word of english.  He was delighted that I could converse and was patient with my frequent pauses while I translated my thoughts and put them on my tongue.  We discussed Argentinians vs Peruvians, male pattern baldness in some North Americans, my fear about my upcoming trek up the Inca trail to Machu Picchu and how he’d never been there even though he grew up in Cusco, and his impression of people from the US (that they always have a guide and don’t try to speak spanish).  Oh how I wished that my vocabulary was large enough to ask him about deeper subjects - the oil spill, corruption in Peru, the health of the planet.  When it was time for me to leave he smiled very broadly and agreed with me when I said that I very much enjoyed speaking with him.

This 20 minute impromptu conversation made my trip to Peru.  He wasn’t asking me to buy something, begging, or offering me a piece of crap supposedly made by hand; it was a human to human interaction of the most basic kind.  Conversation.  He was grateful for my spanish and I was grateful for his patience and curiosity.  It’s the impromptu things like this that are making this trip unbelievably incredible.

Northern Argentina ROCKS

Northern Argentina has the craziest mix of geological formations we've ever seen.  Shapes, colors, sizes that we never could imagine....all mixed together.  It's no wonder parts of Star Wars was filmed here.  In one area of the Northern Salta province there is a hill of 7 colors.  Photos do not do the views justice.  The spectrum of pink, red, gray, blue, green, brown, and white represent ancient layers of sea, lake and river sediment.   

 

 We rented a car to explore this area, every curve in the road presented a new awesome view.

Part of the area is studded with huge cardón cacti.

The colorful sedimentary layers and the pinnacles and crags jutting from the valley slopes create a feast for the eyes.  It was obvious to us that this land underwent some serious upheaval when the tectonic plates collided.

We were amazed by the bizarre sandstone formations created by the fierce winds over the millennia.

 

We're so glad we made the effort to travel here, we almost skipped it.  The natural beauty is overwhelming.

Take only photographs, Leave only footprints

How many times have you heard that phrase? Leave only footprints. Just how big are the footprints swe're leaving? Footprints in the sand, on the trail, in the dust, on the planet. We all have different sized footprints and they change sizes occasionally, don‘t they. One day we might be bare foot, walking on our tip toes, the next day we might be wearing huge steel toed work boots. Even before the latest oil spill crisis, I’ve been aware of how traveling effects the size of our footprint. Our energy footprint that is. What size shoes are we wearing while seeing the world? It stresses me to think that they are bigger then when we were living our lives in Portland. They were big enough there. Our water bottle and plastic bag consumption is much more then at home. We’re not commuting to work every day but we’re renting cars, flying and taking taxis. However, we are using subways and walking way more then ever. And we’re not buying near the amount of stuff that we were. (Is this rationalization or reality?) It bothers me that our footprint has probably gone up a size. We’re being conscientious and doing our best not to add to the troubles most South American countries have with litter and pollution, but if I’m honest, if I really was so concerned about the footprint we’re leaving, we should have stayed put.

I hope that the oil spill tragedy is at least causing people to stop and think about their own foot print size. Or, as I fear is the case, are most people just continuing life as usual with their head in the sand about their impact? Will anyone change their behavior due to this tragic event? Will people buy fewer water bottles, use fewer plastic bags, drive less, buy less stuff, be a bit too warm or too chilly in their home, unplug appliances? Or will people simply vote for more off shore and land based drilling? It’s very complex; I realize the answers aren‘t easy. Even though this adventure we are on makes it more apparent then ever that we are such a itty bitty blip on the planet’s radar, we still believe that our behavior makes a difference. We’re going to be more diligent about making changes to reduce our footprint size. Thank you for reading this rant!

Sharpening our sales skills in South America

What?  Did that guy really put a set of pliers on my leg in the metro of Buenos Aires....fully packaged in plastic?  Or did that guy on the beach really think I was going to buy a neon pink biquini (spelled this way in Portugese).

Amy and I have each been selling professionally for some time now. We have seen a lot of ways of approaching a sales cycle.....but this?

Our first taste of this “New selling” approach was in the subway of Buenos Aires. It is common for a vendor to simply place his product of choice (whatever fell off the truck that week) on to the unsuspecting lap of the commuters. Everyone simply accepts the “gift” as he moves swiftly through the car between stops. Then as train begins to slow down, he picks it back up. If this is the day you simply could not live without that 3-pack of kleenex, or pair of scissors, or..... then you simply pay up. If you can live another day without this said product....you graciously offer it back to the vendor. Simple. Everyone understands. We were fascinated.

Anyone who has visited a beach in Mexico understands that you are the next prospect for the sand dwellers hawking their wares. These guys have nothing on the Sand Sales Gods of Rio! If you choose to walk the beaches of Copacabana or Ipanema (which I highly advise), you are a prospect! Take your pick......Tshirts, hats, sunglasses, hammocks, cold beer (YES!!!!!!!!!), watermelon, shrimp kabobs, assorted other food items, Futbols, biquinis, beach chairs, things with “Brasil” printed on them, and more. Make eye contact and you are a prospect. Stop for a minute to enjoy the view...you are a prospect. Bring out a camera.....be prepared for the entire population of Rio to try to sell you something. We counted – less than 30 seconds between each sales effort directed at us, and it NEVER ends. Yes.....these are the true sand gods of selling!

Mi Amigo....I have EVERYTHING you need. Well, you can probably guess where this one could go.

Children selling socks, religious artifacts, and looking way too cute. One came up and hugged us and wouldn't let go. As much as you want to give something to these sales Prince and Princesses, you are advised not to. Some adult is putting them up to it, and buying from them encourages continued bad behavior. Of course we couldn't resist all of them. What we found most interesting is the parents of the children are usually close by. One man followed up his child's attempt to sell us an extension chord (you read that correctly!) by offering us Coca leaves. Now that is a completely different story for another blog.....hint, hint.